Duck Carving
A few years ago I became interested in carving ducks and took a course at an adult education class. Each member of the class carved a pintail duck, with the goal being to make it as realistic as possible. I got some pictures of pintails and started chipping away. After about four months my first duck was finished - a Pintail. Although it looks good, I was not satisfied that it was realistic enough.
About a year later I decided that I knew enough about the basics of duck carving to try my hand at a second duck. I chose a wood duck because of their brilliant colors and the fact that I had some wild ones to observe on my pond.
In order for the finished product to look real, both the carving and painting must be executed to the best of one's ability. Observing mounted or live specimens is much better than trying to reproduce a duck from a drawing. Patience is necessary because a considerable time commitment is required.
Acrylic paints are mixed to achieve the desired shade, and these paints are applied in washes to give them a natural look. Fluorescent powders are sometimes used to give an irridescent appearance duplicating the natural feathers. Different kinds of wood can be used depending on what the carver is trying to achieve. I used basswood for the three ducks I have carved so far. A good carving knife and burning tool are a must. Each feather has to be individually burned on the duck before the washes are applied.
Usually the head is done separately from the body. It is important to get the head done correctly, because this is the part that people see first. Individual feathers can be inserted at different locations to make the duck more real. The eyes are glass reproductions and are the only parts that are usually not carved.
For my third duck I decided to do a male mallard standing in some water. This was quite an undertaking because my first two ducks were floaters. It took several months to complete this duck. Carvers can buy feet made out of plastic or pewter, but I liked the idea of carving my own. After I finished carving each foot, I drilled a hole down through the legs and inserted a rod about the size of a 16 penny nail. This arrangement provided good support for the body, which is solid. I made the base out of a piece of oak and used grocery bags cut up in little strips for the grass. The water was made from a clear liquid epoxy. After the duck was finished it was sprayed with a fixative to protect the paint. To your right are the three ducks I have carved so far. A lot of time is involved, but the final product is worth the effort.
About a year later I decided that I knew enough about the basics of duck carving to try my hand at a second duck. I chose a wood duck because of their brilliant colors and the fact that I had some wild ones to observe on my pond.
In order for the finished product to look real, both the carving and painting must be executed to the best of one's ability. Observing mounted or live specimens is much better than trying to reproduce a duck from a drawing. Patience is necessary because a considerable time commitment is required.
Acrylic paints are mixed to achieve the desired shade, and these paints are applied in washes to give them a natural look. Fluorescent powders are sometimes used to give an irridescent appearance duplicating the natural feathers. Different kinds of wood can be used depending on what the carver is trying to achieve. I used basswood for the three ducks I have carved so far. A good carving knife and burning tool are a must. Each feather has to be individually burned on the duck before the washes are applied.
Usually the head is done separately from the body. It is important to get the head done correctly, because this is the part that people see first. Individual feathers can be inserted at different locations to make the duck more real. The eyes are glass reproductions and are the only parts that are usually not carved.
For my third duck I decided to do a male mallard standing in some water. This was quite an undertaking because my first two ducks were floaters. It took several months to complete this duck. Carvers can buy feet made out of plastic or pewter, but I liked the idea of carving my own. After I finished carving each foot, I drilled a hole down through the legs and inserted a rod about the size of a 16 penny nail. This arrangement provided good support for the body, which is solid. I made the base out of a piece of oak and used grocery bags cut up in little strips for the grass. The water was made from a clear liquid epoxy. After the duck was finished it was sprayed with a fixative to protect the paint. To your right are the three ducks I have carved so far. A lot of time is involved, but the final product is worth the effort.
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